Kathakali - Costume And Ornaments
Costume
The symbolism which is followed in
the make-up and headgears is also carried out in the costume colours worn by
the various characters. The Pachcha characters usually wear a jacket of either
purple, blue or yellow colour. The red-beards wear a red jacket and the white-beards
wear a white jacket. While the scarfs which hang on either side follow the colour
patterns set by the make-up. The lower half of the costume of Kathakali dancer
is common to all types excepting the minukku characters. An attempt is made
to enlarge the actors proportions by using heavily plaited skirts. Beneath this
awe-inspiring make-up huge headgear and spectacular costume is a most pliable,
lithe, slim and well-trained body.
Most male characters wear dark full-sleeved
jackets with coloured or white bulging long skirts. Lengths of white cloth
thrown over the shoulders are also there. The female characters wear their hair
in a knot on the top of the forehead veiled with a ornamented scarf falling
over red jackets coupled with a white sari covering the lower half of the body.
Ornaments
The ornaments and jewellery include
necklace, bracelets, bangles, gilt breast-plates and bunches of tiny bells strung
round the ankles. The language of the eyes or the Nayanabhinaya assumes an exceptional
role in this style of dance. Hence in Kathakali the expressive qualities of
the eyes have been exploited to the maximum and it lends Kathakali a new dimension.
Kathakali alone among various Indian dance-forms uses the different parts
of the eyes - the eyebrows, eyelids, the eyeballs, the iris and the pupil to
the highest degree of eye expression. In this style of dance recital the eyes
of all the characters are reddened by the application of mild irritant of a
flower so as to give prominence to the eyes. The bright red eyes suit better
to various moods of the characters and the colour schemes of different make-ups.
The red eyes together with so brilliant and colourful make-ups head-dresses,
gorgeous costumes and jewellery bestow on Kathakali an unearthly and fantastic
facet which transform the whole dance-drama into a thing of another world.
